Wednesday, August 19, 2009

What’s next? Only God knows…

I get indigestion when I think about this country’s so-called leader, The Mouse. A Reuters article said, “Madagascar’s Rajoelina says only he can lead the transition.” (http://www.reuters.com/article/latestCrisis/idUSLF51056) The article goes on to quote The Mouse as saying, "It is unimaginable that anyone else should lead the transition,” and that, “nothing in the (signed) charter says the president must be appointed by common accord." Does this look like a collaboration or an agreement, as the general public might comprehend those terms?

I have not yet seen any articles that indicate who died and made him God.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

What's next for Madagascar from this mickey-mouse regime?

It almost looks like the new dictator, uh, I mean, oh, what do you call someone who takes power supported by the armed forces? TGV? HAT? M-O-U-S-E.

So, it looks like The Mouse is trying to continue to exercise power while he starts to see the futility of his efforts. On Tuesday, Radio France Internationale (RFI) was reporting on the first of the protests by pro-Ravalomanana citizens, and they planned daily protests until the deposed president is back in power. One of the national radio systems, affiliated with Rajoelina, broadcasts RFI news in the mornings, but with a three-second delay from the original transmission, as I listen to it via my satellite television connection while my neighbors blast it on their radios. But the report on the protests began via my satellite, and the local radio station went into music rather than continue reporting the news.

However, on Wednesday, as The Mouse caves under international pressure to hold a referendum, the broadcast report of his gesture of good will was not cut off. Why do I get the feeling that this is just a ploy to buy time and will never come to fruition? Can't wait to see what comes next.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Dripchak on the Malagasy “Transfer of Power”

So much for democracy. As someone who had won two popular elections, I would think that there would have been more support for Ravalomanana, but things are never as they seem. I, personally, thought that Ravalomanana would never quit because he had all sorts of legal supports, such as a constitution that provided mechanisms for removing the President, as well as international pressure on the country to avoid a transition that did not come from democratic elections. Apparently, this is of no concern to Rajoelina, who plans to rewrite the constitution, probably to fit his needs, since he is six years too young to hold the office. And, as the BBC so aptly put it:

“Mr Rajoelina had said the president has been a tyrant who misspent public money but Mr Ravalomanana's supporters said his rival is a young troublemaker who has not offered any policy alternatives.” (See article:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7949596.stm )

An Associated Press story (
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090318/ap_on_re_af/af_madagascar) said, “Rajoelina, however, comes from the wealthy minority that has had a stranglehold on Madagascar's politics.

The African Union has a rule to the effect that any country that experiences a change of leaders through any means other than democratic elections can no longer be a member of the AU. This year will be particularly interesting because the AU was planning to hold their summit in Antananarivo, and many businesspeople were in the process of investing in infrastructure, more specifically hotels and service industries, in anticipation of the event. While the global economic crisis begins to cool off elsewhere, it’s getting worse here.

I live on the east coast, where most people do not / did not like Ravalomanana, and are happy to “have their way,” in a sense though this is not their candidate. But there are people here who say they did not see that Ravalomanana did anything wrong. They recognize many of the positive things he did for the economy, even while stating outright their suspicions that he probably had his fingers in every deal so as to obtain personal gain.

We’ll see how things evolve. Hopefully, I’ll be able to stay…

Saturday, March 07, 2009

Dripchak on "Developmentality: What, if anything, were they thinking?"

“Development” per se, is not a product but a process. It never ends. For example, say you’ve mastered creating formulas in an Excel spreadsheet, and now you want to automate the process with macros. Once that’s done, you want to move onto programming in Visual Basic so you can go beyond one spreadsheet, and on and on. I have never “targeted” development, but rather applied it toward a prioritized list of needs at a community level. The objective is to work oneself out of a job, and that the works left behind are important enough to the villagers, who have been trained, that they alone ensure maintenance and improvements.

That said, the process of development is often controlled through “facipulation” or facilitating the process toward some prescribed goals and objectives, thus manipulating the outcome. Faci + pulation. Might as well be open about it. There are so many agendas to deal with in a project that the “facipulator” has to know how to work his/her way through the morass of conflicting desires.

As for the idea of turning everyone into “little consumers like those of us in the US,” NO! Self-sufficiency is the goal. In fact, I’m often embarrassed by the opinions of Americans that I’ve come across in my work, many of which have been right on the mark, or others so far off that they inspire outrageous laughter, until you investigate where the opinion came from.

I originally joined the Peace Corps because I did not find working in the US of A potentially rewarding for me. There are so many social safeguards that my work would only bring satisfaction to me, if that were possible, but my satisfaction comes from knowing I might have helped someone do something better than s/he used to do it, and that I might have inspired the curiosity of that person to further test and improve the method. It’s kind of like watching and helping kids grow up. They beam with every new discovery, and when so inspired, go on to test other aberrations of your theory.

I completely agree with my colleague about learning overseas. I knew early on that I was only one person with a limited set of skills to share with others, while they were hundreds, each with something new for me. I definitely made out on that score! Never thought I could save the world, but I wanted to inspire the “Think Globally, Act Locally” approach to changing things. Another ‘ism that became prevalent during my work has been, “If you’re not part of the solution, then you’re part of the problem.” Too many times people who are excluded from processes sit on the sidelines and bitch about how things should be. I have seen many cases where getting them off their asses have been both positive and negative, but it was definitely better than listening to them bitch! And understanding WHY they are like that is tantamount to making any progress whatsoever.

This gets back to something we (?) used in the PC which was participatory appraisals. So many “experts” talk about how easy it is to do a PRA, but they obviously don’t have a clue. In the Congo recently, a researcher who was an ex-PCV in west Africa said something to the effect that after her two years in the PC, she thought a PRA was quick and easy. I did all I could to resist writing back to her to say that because I went to the zoo as a child, that I was an expert on elephants. When I was in Guatemala, we brought a woman from Virginia Tech to help train staff in PRA. The phrase that rings true to this day in my head is, “It’s the process and NOT the product.” She was SOOOOO right!

Some further thoughts:
I was once the point person for the organization in Guatemala for a “research” project under the USG SANREM project. The gurus from Virginia Tech thought I was dragging my feet on the process, but this was because they had not a clue what participation entailed, and I was in charge of the participatory appraisal component.

While in the Republic of Congo, I investigated why the economic alternative component had not been successful in the past. A former employee who had been responsible for it immediately confirmed my initial analysis that “the numbers” were far more important than the quality of the project. He said they were under pressure to reach and register as “participants” as many beneficiaries in the project area as soon as possible.

Again, a grave misunderstanding as to what “participatory” might imply.

When faced with a contrary opinion from the farmer’s side as to a recommendation from the extensionist, one needs to invest the time to understand why this is the case. What might be the reason(s) behind the non-acceptance of the extensionist’s sage advice.

Anyhow, hope this little message inspires some thought on the part of those of us who still have an impact on other peoples’ lives.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Dripchak returns to Madagascar and, wouldn’cha know it, it really hasn’t changed.

Maybe I waxed romantic about Madagascar and Maroantsetra while I was in Central Africa, but reality is coming back, “finally” in some ways, after being here for three and a half months.

After so many little problems here, I took it upon myself to nickname the town, changing Maroantsetra to “Maroa-tsarotra,” which, loosely translated, means “a lot of difficulties.” That’s life here. But things have undergone an interesting series of events. At the outset of our time back, at the end of October, things were like they were long before: electricity was on-again-off-again (though on a more “regular” schedule); the house was not yet completed, so there was still a lot chasing after contractors and fixing things they did; and, it was HOT!

The interesting aspect here is that it was not raining as much as I recalled, and that was not so unusual because there is usually a relatively dry period in September-October. But here we were into November – December, and the days were still sunny and dry, with occasional overnight downpours. I could deal with that, in spite of the prickly heat that was driving me nuts.

Then, in late December, the electric company (Jirama) got their new generator and/or repair parts, and we have had electricity in the house almost constantly since then. We were able to pretty much finish the electrical installation in the house (except for the terrible job the construction crew did in the first phase – no ground for the plugs, for what reason I have no idea). And with a lot of dogging, the plumber finished the gravity-fed water system, without the water heater, which has been deemed not a priority in these financially-strapped times. I helped him install the electric pump to get the water up to the reservoir, and voila!

An aside: “Jirama” stands for Jiro et Rano Malagasy, or Malagasy electricity and water. Here in Maroa-tsarotra, they are known as “Jima” because they don’t have a water service.

So, water and electricity. What else could one need? Oh yeah, the “tenants” (as I affectionately refer to my wife’s family members who occupy the wooden house we originally built and I am eager to get rid of because it draws flies and family members) brought a puppy into the household. For lack of imagination and the old habit of the name the only other dog the house has had, she was named Bobbie. While quite the handful, she brings all those good and bad attributes of a puppy, and I love having her around.

Another positive discovery was that the cell phone provider was dealing the Internet over the connection, albeit quite expensive for such a feeble connection. At least I can look for work and send my CV out. Can’t get any software or updates, unfortunately, and I’m having a major problem with the firmware for my DVD drive.

So, I’m close to living in a dream world. Things work. But just in the past week or so, the rainy season, if one can call it that in one of the wettest places in the world, has kicked in. It rains so hard at night that even the dog is scared, and I rarely get a good night’s sleep now.

Bottom line: I’m going crazy sitting in Maroantsetra, not doing anything fulfilling.

Thursday, November 01, 2007

Home Sweet (new) Home

Newly arrived to the Republic of Congo, I can now understand why it was recommended that I opt for carrying whatever I needed with me and paying excess baggage fees as opposed to having household goods and personal belongings shipped via a moving company. Three and a half hours in an outboard-rigged pirogue (or dugout canoe) would not be the best way to treat a large amount of one’s personal belongings. It would also be cruel to make the pirogue pilot endure several trips overloaded with cargo.

I had time to reflect on things as they are. I’m pretty sure I’ve always considered ecotourism a stupid idea from a consumer’s point of view. My family, while I was growing up, never considered it, though we did make our unforgettable visit to the Catskill Game Farm in upstate New York (though I’d be hard-pressed to point it out on a map). But as cruised along the Sangha River on a Saturday afternoon, with basically nothing to see in ecotouristy terms, I thought about how much some people pay to do just that. And in email exchanges on Monday morning at the office, I’d have a unique response to the what-did-you-do-this-weekend query.

But the part that makes me gloat is that I get paid to be here, and every now and then, I have to remind myself of this great benefit. Yesterday, I had that “Hey! Look where I am!” feeling that I have not had in a long time, having been in Madagascar for an extended period (it had become “normal” – uh oh, here we go again on the “normal” bit), and most recently employed in the DRC, which I would not wish on anyone that I liked.

I guess I’m kind of harsh on the DRC, but we worked with people who were constantly being abused by their countrymen, and then bailed out by foreigners only to turn around and bite the expats in the jugular to suck the life out of any relief program that either helped them or employed them to help others. And it was worse in Kinshasa, where I unfortunately spent most of my time. I preferred to be out in the field because then it was only the staff that I had to contend with, as the average people in the village and along the roads were not out for my grant-endowed blood as were the Kinois (people from Kinshasa). Another expat staff person pointed out, while we were in Kasongo, that I was a completely different person when we weren’t in Kinshasa. That’s understandable. It’s the only place, so far in my short life, that I was consistently pissed off from the time I left the apartment at 7 AM until I got home at 7 PM. And my poor, wonderful wife put up with me. In fact, she encouraged me to hang in there.

Anyway, here I sit on my new veranda, overlooking the Sangha River on a Sunday morning. The people standing in their pirogues, making their way across the river, seem like miniatures to me because, apparently, the distance is deceiving. I mean, the river is right there in front of me, and yet it is so vast.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Religious Fervor??


I have been inspired to update the blog by none other than CNN. They are airing two sets of reports that are eerily linked.

This week marks the 30th anniversary of the death of Elvis Presley. The “faithful” that are flocking to his mansion are expressing an almost religious fervor about his legacy. As a reporter put it, they have put aside all knowledge of his personal life (like the drugs and alcohol that probably caused his death) and they are focused only on his music and how wonderful, inspiring, etc., it is.

The network is also airing a report “one year in the making” called “God’s Warriors.” The almighty Ms. Amanpour will be enlightening us on the reasons behind three different “religions” of influence nowadays: Christian, Muslim and Jewish. If the Presley congregation gets some weapons, maybe she should highlight them, too.

These reminded me of a book I read recently called “The End of Faith,” by Sam Harris. While the book looked primarily at the Muslims, it alluded to some of the American religious right’s influence on society, and on politics in particular. There were interesting passages in it.

Some prose from “The End of Faith,” by Sam Harris

(p. 65) Faith is what credulity becomes when it finally achieves escape velocity from the constraints of terrestrial discourse – constraints like reasonableness, internal coherence, civility, and candor.

(p. 215) Faith is rather like a rhinoceros, in fact: it won’t do much in the way of real work for you, and yet at close quarters it will make spectacular claims upon your attention.”

(p. 182) Intuition: One cannot walk far in the company of moral theorists without hearing our faculty of “moral intuition” either exalted or scorned. The reason for the latter attitude is that the term “intuition” has always carried the scent of impropriety in philosophical and scientific discourse. Having been regularly disgraced by its appearance in colloquialisms like “women’s intuition” (meaning “psychic”), or otherwise directly contrasted with “reason,” the word now seems to conjure up all that is cloying and irrational outside the university gates. The only striking exception to this rule is to be found among mathematicians, who apparently speak of their intuitions without the least embarrassment – rather like travelers to exotic places in the developing world who can often be heard discussing the misadventures of their colon over breakfast. But, as we know, mathematicians travel to very exotic places indeed. We might also note that many of them admit to being philosophical Platonists, without feeling any apparent need to consult a trained philosopher for an exorcism.

Hey! I just saw Elvis!

Sunday, April 01, 2007

Am I the only one who sees this?

It's been seven months since I left the DR Congo, and I am still and increasingly pleased about that decision. I wish I could propose a solution to the problems they are causing themselves, but it boggles the mind for a myriad of reasons. Now look at the most recent stuff:

Bemba is going to Portugal

See an article on the BBC web site:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/6502719.stm
"Mr Bemba is planning to leave on Saturday to go to Portugal where he has been receiving medical treatment for a broken leg," Dumisani Kumalo told the BBC.

Assuming Kumalo, South Africa's Permanent Representative to the UN, has mastered the English language, his statement implies that Bemba has already been to Portugal for treatment. Also, interestingly, the press has said absolutely nothing leading up to this that Bemba ever had a broken leg.
"...there is speculation the trip may be used as a diplomatic manoeuvre to ease tension."


Let's see. Bemba's support is in western DRC, including the capital. Not far to the south lies Angola, who constantly denies they are going to invade the DRC. And Portugal is the former colonizer of Angola, and maintains very close ties to them and their economy out of self interest, of course...

What common interest would Bemba, Portugal and Angola share...? In investing, they say past performance is not an indicator of what's to come, but in human behavior, I'd say it's pretty indicative.

Sunday, July 30, 2006

Relatively Historical Event

Relative to every day, the violence is not historical. That’s a “normal” aspect of life in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Today, the country is supposed to hold the first “free” elections in over 40 years. And in spite of the atrocities that happen here every day, the rape and pillaging, the impunity, and on and on, the media have finally decided to give some attention to this, the third largest country in Africa. Is this right?

One candidate, Mobutu’s son, said that his father would win if he was alive because, as he put it, the Congo needs leadership.

Bemba was described as 2-meters tall, 160 kg with his own Boeing 727.


As bizarre, or benign, as this might seem now, it's the aftermath that I fear.

Friday, July 14, 2006

You did it MY WAY (apologies to Frankie Sinatra)

Why does one get into overseas relief and development work? There is an altruistic vein running through some of us. There is also a hedonistic vein, in some of us, having once experienced the excitement of being in another country and culture, exploiting the “aura” of being an American/vazaha, gringo, khawaga, mizungu, whatever, that it is a lot of fun to see the world from a different perspective, and to enjoy from another, as well.

In any case, the point is that once a “development” action has been put in place in some forsaken place in the world, there are consequences on other aspects of day-to-day life in the village. For example, some well-meaning soul sees water-borne diseases causing many deaths in some very remote village next to a wilderness area. Immediate response: deliver healthcare services that will save lives. What is the chain of possible events? Well, people, in their living state, consume resources to survive. If people die, the birth rate may be offset, and the number of people remains stable. If, because of improved access to health services, less people die, then there are more people seeking resources. Most rural-based populations subsist on the natural resources that are at hand. In this example, it would be the wilderness at their proverbial doorstep. All of a sudden, the conservationists are up in arms because the rate of deforestation has increased because need to grow more crops to feed their ever-increasing families. In turn, the deforestation causes sedimentation and degradation of the quality of the water sources, hence an increase in water-borne diseases. So, the government, backed by a Big International Non Governmental Organization (a.k.a., BINGO), restricts the local villagers’ access to the wilderness that has sustained them for centuries. Outcries of social injustice sound, armed militias might come in, depending on what type of resources (timber, gold, etc.) might be found in our wilderness, and we spin forlornly into a crisis situation.

Of course, the “well-intentioned” donor, albeit an individual or a government, would not invest any money unless they feel the identified problem is important enough to merit attention. But how do the different issues take on such different levels of importance depending on who observes? The mid-90’s genocide in Rwanda was “important enough” for the USA to look away… The ongoing an worsening crisis in the Democratic Republic of Congo has not drawn much attention from donors.
Some of the factors that earn a given situation a good ranking might include:

Simplicity: if we throw money at it, will it go away?

Reputation: if we don’t throw money, will it damage our image?

International economics: would our resolving this increase / secure our access?

Domestic economics: “what this economy needs is a war”

Whatever the reason, money talks.

Tuesday, June 06, 2006

DON'T JUST SIT THERE!

Did you ever wonder about why things are as they are? Or why we see atrocities in other countries but not in our backyards? It's all a manifestation of human nature. In the end, we're all screwed, but we can at least get some satisfaction from understanding and anticipating human behavior.

I just had a series of conversations with a colleague from Ghana who is in on a temporary duty assignment with us in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). He is based in Kindu, and I have to admit I have a soft spot in my heart for Kindu because I spent three weeks there in April 2004 on a short-term contract. The interesting aspect is that, for some reason, Africans think that there is little variation in conditions, customs, and context between the different places on the continent. Then they either come to the DR Congo (for the foreigners) or they take a trip to another country in Africa (for the Congolese), and it is like a slap in the face for them when they see the differences.

For example, a few of our staff in the Finance Department spent a week in Nairobi for workshop recently. Now, Americans sometimes refer to Nairobi as “Nairobbery” because of the crime rate and the frequent theft of items from baggage in the Kenyatta Airport. But these Congolese staff came back wondering why their country could not be at least equal to Nairobi. Why were the differences so stark and obvious? Kenyatta Airport is relatively clean. Ndjili Airport in Kinshasa is a shit hole relative anything but a sanitary landfill. And the airport staff are the equivalent of the scavengers in the dump.

So, getting back to my conversations with my Ghanaian colleague, whenever we spoke of some glaring injustice or downright shitty conditions, I found myself frequently shrugging my shoulders and saying that it was normal, with the qualifier that “normal” is relative to the context. Normality has many implications.

In Egypt, a largely (+/- 90% of the population) Muslim country, a discussion with my staff led us to the following: A man slaps his wife around every other day. So, it is normal. Does that make it right?

In southern Maniema province in the DRC, a baseline study found that at least 1/3 of the women had been raped, and that to visit family members in the local jail (families must provide food), they usually are subjected to rape. It’s just normal.

I just saw an article in the news that a “political party” in the Netherlands (Neverland?) wants to lower the age for females to become prostitutes from 16 to 12…Normal?

It’s all relative, I guess, depending on your frame of reference.

Another colleague, a Kenyan, was with me in a small Cessna airplane. As we flew into Kasongo in rural southern Maniema, he asked if we would see any animals from the plane as we landed. Well, just outside of Nairobi, there are game / safari parks and you may see giraffes or other wildlife from the plane as you come in. Personally, it had never occurred to me to look for animals in any space touched by the Congolese. They’d have eaten them all already. For example, on a return trip to Kinshasa in the same small plane, as we taxied up to the hangar, we saw five boys attacking some brush with sticks. They were hunting field mice…in an urban environment…so, I guess that makes them rats. Normal, or maybe not, because tonight, they were putting MEAT ON THE TABLE!

This is the first country where I have worked that does not habitually use a reference to God or some superior being. You know, the Muslims say, “Insha-allah,” the Latin Americans, “Si Dios quiere,” the Malagasy, “Manenteina,” and on and on. Here, it’s “Débrouillez-vous.” Loose translation: “It’s your problem, deal with it!” How could they possibly have any social cohesion in this context? However, sometimes I see a sort of “community spirit” when the Kinois (people of Kinshasa) gang up on foreigners who have been obliged to stray into their domain. But I am never sure about whether the spoils are actually shared or just shown off as a sign of superiority. I had a conversation once with a boy of 11 years old who had been demobilized from a militia. He said he had no problem to break into a neighbor’s home, killing him if necessary, to rob his riches if they were relatively abundant as compared to those in the community. I then asked him how he would feel if he was the one with the abundant resources. He replied that he would have already distributed his wealth to others. HA! I may be jaundiced on this, but once he has his hands on it, he would only spread it around to increase his position in society, and he would make a big deal of his “generosity”, no less.

People aspire to be like those they envy. Their degree of moral flexibility is probably directly related to their degree of poverty and desperation. The powerful ones here get away with so much it sickens me, and makes me want to leave, after smacking them in the face, of course.

One of the most frustrating aspects of working here is the impunity that will impede any changes at the necessary level to get rid of the thieves at the top. I enjoy my work because the objective is to work myself out of a job. It’s something to aspire to. And it is particularly gratifying to see someone who has learned and taken over, in a competent manner, the work you so diligently performed, and you can walk away and not feel that things would fall apart as soon as the door slammed behind you.

Sunday, May 28, 2006


Something I really like about working overseas is the chance to visit places that you only see in books or movies. But having been in the DR Congo for more than 18 months now, I find myself wishing to live someplace where I am not pissed off from the moment I leave my apartment at 7 AM until I get home at 7 PM. This place really sucks. On a recent trip back to Madagascar, one of my former mentors reminded me that if there isn't a single thing that I like about the place, between work, social life, environment, etc., then it's time to get out.

Maybe it is time to hole up in the shack we built in NE Madagascar. Decision-time is fast approaching.

Saturday, March 25, 2006

On one of my trips to Madagascar...

Geez, I came across an old, old file that should (not?) have posted long ago. Abouy…

02 July 2005

I don’t know if I’ll ever get this posted, never mind all the earlier ones that are lurking somewhere on this computer.  I’ve been on a “vacation” to Madagascar, and things have gone incredibly well.  Primarily, I am speaking of the travel.  Air Madagascar, the perennial nemesis of the traveler, has given us spots on flights, people in Antalaha, Maroantsetra and Tana have gone way out of their respective ways to help us out.  I am hoping that his is payback for some good things I might have unwittingly done during my five years here, and not the proverbial luck that comes and goes.  
I try to repay favors and others’ kindness with random acts of kindness, but I never know if I am credited.  There was a Kevin Spacey movie, called something like “Pay It Forward,” in which one built up good fortune by not asking anything in return for kind acts.  Not a great flick, but the idea may have merit.  It touches on religion, do-unto-others,
The other day in Antalaha, we were with the priest who performed our marriage ceremony.  As we walked through his church, which was under renovation, I told him about how I left the Catholic church when I was 17, and how in spite of my belief in God, I saw little value in organized religion.  My wife later asked me how I could say such a thing to a priest, and I told her that this particular priest and I talk like friends who understand each other.  He seems to understand that I have no interest in being “devout,” yet I dedicate my efforts to helping people in need through my work.



...No matter where you go...
Exclusive Dealing with the World

Kinshasa is a land of traffic jams...
Exclusive Dealing with the World

It's all a matter of interpretation, I guess
Exclusive Dealing with the World

Thursday, June 03, 2004

Back in the Mada, Back in the Mada, Back in the Madagascar….

Despite the lag in posting here, I have not had a whole lot of time to be reflective. I only had one week of so-called vacation before I was recruited to take over the reins of the cyclone relief project. While it’s okay to have some income, the pay is not great (because they recognize my lack of experience) and it requires some background that I do not have. My predecessor can whip out numbers and rates of work in a second. This is the first time I have seen this type of work up close, and I haven’t a clue as what is expected/possible from villagers in a food-for-work program.

When I first arrived in Antalaha, I had thought that the cyclone could not do much more damage than was still around from Hudah in 2000 and Ihary in 2002. Gafilo, as this one was called, managed to rip up roads, blow down houses, and generally disrupt life. The effects of Hudah were far greater, still evident fours years on. The best business to be in Antalaha is the hardware business. Everybody needs to rebuild after cyclones, and in less traumatic times, people aspire to improve their surroundings little by little. Not everyone, of course, like the people who had not repaired their roofs since the cyclone in 2000. The funny thing is that donors had given out plastic sheeting for shelter that had lasted until now. This would reduce the demand for their handouts, so they asked the producer to make the plastic more degradable!

As I find frequent place to say this, I shall repeat that there are so many things that are invariable around the world. Kids playing for a camera, for example. I don ‘t know, maybe I left the US before I had much exposure to children. Though I was once one myself ;-), I am the youngest of four, so I never had a sibling to torment, uh, to look after. (Lucky for you, Marcia – imagine GI Joe coming after YOU!) But I used to react unfavorably to American kids when they got cranky overseas with their parents. Maybe they had been pampered in order to get them to agree to stay in Asuncion, for example. Part of it had to do with the sound of the American English language. Too many nasal sounds, wrong accentuation.

I can get myself into trouble in about seven languages, but interestingly, the one I “like” amongst them also has explicit nasal vowels: Guaraní, of Paraguay. But the intonation of local speakers makes the language amusing, if not attractive. At a cookout once, a drunken Paraguayan told me he spoke several languages, including Japanese. A friend who was present asked him if he understood the greeting, “Inẽe ne cason.” He replied that yes, it was commonly used. In his drunkenness, he failed to recognize that it was a phrase in Guaraní meaning, “Your pants stink.”

Sorry, I’m rambling off to the wrong continent. This subcontinental island, Madagascar, should be enough to occupy my thoughts for a long time. This is the kind of place that gets under your skin. A South African friend just left after being here for about 12 years. It was his post that I took over. I am sure he will be back, for work or vacation. This is also the longest I have stayed any one place since leaving my parents’ home at the end of high school. Heck, I got married here. But since the year 2000, we have been hit by three cyclones in my little town. Cyclones are an annual event, but I have not heard of any one town having such shit luck over a similar period.

Thursday, April 29, 2004

“The party’s over….”

It’s been four weeks since I have been in Kindu, along the mighty Congo River. Do I feel any more enriched by this? Yeah, in a lot of ways. Am I reminded of Tarzan movies from when I was a kid? Of course! (What does THE CONGO conjure up for you?) One thing I really regret is not having mastered this weblog-thang so I can put photos in the middle of the text, as I have seen on other people’s blogs. There is a link on the sidebar, “See some of the places I’ve been,” that takes you, the viewer, to a photo page, but a lot of people don’t bother with that sort of stuff. Go on, be adventurous!

So, it’s my last night in Kindu. And it’s raining like never before, except that this time there are no hailstones. The rain in Third World countries poses a conundrum. They have so little “developed” area, how do they manage to have so much “urban” runoff? It’s because they sweep their dirt! There are some things that run common in “under developed” countries which contribute to their being that way, in my opinion. It is not to say that all of these aspects are bad, but they could be prioritized a bit differently. For example, the Mayor of Bunia accused all foreigners of being too cold, because the Congolese value the “chaleur humain.” Well, this “human warmth” is what keeps his piece-of-shit cousin in a job that someone else could perform a thousand times better. (Why make an effort when I can get by on chaleur humain?) It is also what encourages people to not respect contracts. (And then the contractor can’t understand why I don’t want to be his buddy. If I can’t trust him to do the work he is obligated to do, how can I trust him to anything else?) {On the other hand, this network of social capital provides a viable substitute for a government-sponsored welfare program. So, maybe development is a government-sanctioned plot to get us all dependent on them! Pretty clever.}

Now, during leisure time, some people are genuinely interested in foreigners and their (our) perspectives on things. That was how I originally got interested in getting overseas: through knowing exchange students in high school. They had an adventurous spirit that was almost invincible, but when I did the exchange student bit in Colombia, I found out how fragile that façade can be.

And, next week I join the ranks of the unemployed. It will be nice for a little while, like a week or two. But I am sure I won’t sit still. The reason I am looking forward to it is to tend to all the things that have taken a back seat to work. Like writing letters, reading a few decent books (for pleasure, not for work). Or that very interesting course on a CD that I dropped $50 on and haven’t touched except to see how it works, once, if ever, I get around to it.

Tuesday, April 13, 2004

The more things change,...

So, there are things that change, there are things that run constant. I have always thought back to the fact that if I have expectations of someone, I have taken away his/her humanity. One cannot expect machine-like behavior from a person.

When I tried to weasel in a place for my wife to accompany me to Burundi, I was told that the policy of it being an unaccompanied post had been reinforced. They (the powers that be, whatever they be) have sound, security-based reasons, I am sure, although when I talk to the person responsible for enforcing the policy, she tells me about the lovely night on the town she just had with her friends, etc. And I was worried about the possibility that I would have a reserved spot on a UN flight, but my wife would be left behind.

In my recently-retired work-or-nothing attitude, that would have been okay. But it was a very difficult decision for me to give up my hedonistic lifestyle. (My mother once labeled one of my undergraduate T-shirts “hedonistic,” and I had lived by it ever since. On the other hand, at 82 years old, she is sending me unsolicited letters on how to get the most out of sex with my wife. Gotta love the spirit!) When I decided to get married, this time, I weighed the potential lifestyle changes, and in the end got married. Oh, we had our fights, and I had physically thrown her out of the house on more than one occasion. But once I decided, there was no temptation that would sway me. It was a tough decision, believe me. Too much fun just inspires more fun. But I like her a lot, that is, beyond loving her.

Way back in 1980, I did an internship at an environmental engineering firm near Yale University. There was a Chinese grad student in the house where I rented a room, and one night he read my palm. He basically predicted my marriage and divorce from my first wife (which happened about ten years later), and that I would spend about ten years searching, then find the happily-ever-after woman for me. I have always considered this in retrospect, rather than as a prediction of what is to come. But I have a good feeling, and a strong commitment, about this.

My wife still suspects every little thing I do. In some ways, she is right to do so, but not from my ‘intentions’ side of things. In our little ville of Antalaha, getting married to a vazaha is a potential goldmine to which no one woman should be privy. The undercutting, nastiness of women is played out in all its splendor. There are several things that must be in the genetic make-up of women (as there are in men, scratch-scratch-spit) that just flabbergasts me to arrive in a new country and to be able to predict certain behaviors. Women the world over do a head-to-toe-to-head check-over of new arrivals. By their own admission. I know, no big news.

I never had any idea about my parents’ sex life, or even their non-parental aspects of life. I am the youngest of four, and my parents were 39 and 36 when I was born. Heh, here I am at 45 intending to have children with my 25 year old wife. I have given up enough sperm in my life to populate a small nation, so let’s hope there’s enough left for our little family niche in the world!

I probably won’t be a good parent. I am a really effective manager, but I have often said that I could never be a Country Director in the organization until I had kids and learned the finer techniques of negotiation. Everything in its time.

Sunday, April 04, 2004

Further notes 03 April 2004

After a lot of hustle on the part of my supervisor, I was able to overcome the international bureaucracy of the MONUC (the United Nations’ mission in the Congo) and get on a flight to my next destination. The budget they must have for transport, among other things, has to be greater than the GNP of even some developed nations. When I first left Kinshasa for Bunia, I was on a Boeing 727 (I think) that was as nice as or nicer than the South African Airways flight I had been on the day before. But that was the last I was to see of that luxury. We had a stopover in Entebbe, Uganda, where we got on a plane of a more appropriate size for the dirt runway in Bunia, an old Russian Antonov. (you know, where they have to light a little vodka in the engine to get it started.) For the flight from Bunia to Bukavu, I had to take a commercial flight on a Twin Otter, which seats about 19 people, but I was the only passenger on board for the first leg of it. To get from Bukavu to Kindu, I had a one-night layover in Kisangani, but I was back on the Antonov for that portion, and then used a Russian cargo plane to fly from Kisangani to Kindu. A cargo plane, where you walk up the ramp at the rear end where the forklifts bring in the large crates, and the only seats are padded benches along the sides of the fuselage with seatbelts hanging off them. There were only four of us on that flight.

The stopover in Kisangani was really pleasant, and therefore much too short. I stayed with two French guys who work with another international NGO. They have a pasha’s type of house with a swimming pool. The security situation there was so good that they did not even carry radio handsets around. We went out at night on motorcycles, had a dinner and a few beers, and went home around 11 PM (once again, due to how long it takes to get food in restaurants here). Everything was calm, and no one was on alert status.

Now, in Kindu, the project is “demobilizing” child soldiers and reintegrating them into communities, ideally by finding their real families, so you can imagine that the security situation is a bit tense. This is a completely new domain for me, and extremely complex. For example, if you look at the news about this situation, they’ll say that the children were forcibly recruited, and it is true in most cases. But in others, the parents may have supported the cause of the particular militia group, or the economic circumstances of the household were so bad that the “better” choice was to send the boy to fight. Girls, in all cases I have heard so far, were all recruited by force. One of the worst parts of this is that in addition to being expected to fight, the girls are also often raped and sometimes forced to marry a soldier. Then, when it comes time to go back home, maybe the folks in the village are against the politics of the husband, and so the girl is no longer accepted.

To make matters worse, in some cases the children soldiers participated in (sometimes atrocious) acts against their own villages: destruction of houses and schools, killing people and even cannibalism. So their reintegration into communities is the source of another conflict, as the victims’ families often want retribution. To add a little more complication, the local authorities sometimes encourage that the children go back into the militia to minimize the conflict.

The attitudes and psychological states of these children pose a huge challenge. A colleague related a story that when he was newly arrived, he was trying to be approachable, and a nine-year-old came up, looked at the computer bag on his shoulder, and acted as if he just wanted to joke around and try it on. Well, it took some 45 minutes to negotiate it back, and this “child” apparently had developed this all-powerful attitude from his time in the militia. It has been reported that one experience that creates the sense of invulnerability is eating the flesh of the victims: cannibalism. I wonder what kind of mental terrorism is performed on the children to bring them to this point. Not that I am interested, but this knowledge will come as part of the job, a job I never imagined I would have.

Of course, in the midst of all this, I have once again picked up a Stephen Covey book on how to glean the best out of life’s experiences for one’s personal / professional / moral development. Pretty cold, huh? He has a spiritual side to his writing, and relates a lot of it to real-life experiences. Many would recommend that I pick up a Bible (or counterpart instrument, depending on the religion). But I have not gleaned much from my readings, though I have seen some people put a lot of effort into it and come out “converted,” for lack of a better term. I can extrapolate some things to the situation at hand, but I am more interested in understanding it than addressing it in a spiritual manner. While spirituality may inspire kind thoughts, things like food security, shelter, safety, economic opportunities and the like often are more immediate priorities that could reduce the incidence of conflict if administered “correctly.” I have to go back to the principles of sustainable development, even though this is an emergency situation. People need to participate from the beginning and be held responsible for their actions. Holding individuals responsible needs to be a participatory as well as reciprocal activity, too. An educational base needs to be put in place, with a lot of communication and exchanges in order to break down some barriers.